Don’t get me wrong. I agree that the customer of a factory,
foreign or domestic, has the right to evaluate their suppliers. What I believe needs reevaluation is the
attitude and focus of these efforts with the original goal held dear- protect
the workers.
The practice of social compliance today is a very
sophisticated form of ass covering-especially for major retailers who don’t
want to take any chances of being associated with a factory which engages in
“questionable” labor practices or who suffers some catastrophic event, such as
a fire. There is little thought given to the workers themselves and what is
good for them (such as getting orders).
Same thing, you say. Making the factory adhere to certain
labour and safety standards does protect the workers. The problem is, if the
standards are too over the top by being too many or too complicated or
unattainable, a factory may fail an audit even if they have basic and common
sense standards in place. Let’s take fire, for example. After a catastrophic
fire at a factory in Bangladesh (which never should have been used in the first
place—another problem to be discussed later), Walmart went over the top with
fire protection. One factory I was working with which was two floors high with
a small staircase to the street level was forced to install smoke alarms on a
30 foot ceiling (huh? By the time the smoke gets up there, everybody already
knows what is happening), and a fire alarm bell in each room—like some hero is
going to stand there and ring the bell instead of yelling fire and getting the
hell out himself. Fire marshalls , fire drills, more and more. This all could
be simply solved by making the factory supervisor in that workshop responsible
for safety in case of a fire. Fire extinguishers, exit signs- these are the
basics. And, most of all, basic, common sense fire safety like not putting oily
rags near a heater. I assume the Bangladesh factory passed a social compliance
audit before it was allowed to produce orders, so something else was missing.
Compliance standards get more complicated every year. Which
makes audits more difficult to pass and punishes the workers you are trying to
protect. Very few factories I know can pass an audit cleanly because there are
too many issues and many are not relevant to real life (my favorite is the
Environmental Impact Report-huh? This is an example of the arrogance and lack
of reality-based standards). They need to be simplified to the few things that
really count, and which can be carried through to daily life in the factory-current
ridiculously overcomplicated and unrealistic standards result in the factory
dressing up for the audit day and not taking any of it seriously. Next day,
back to business as usual. But there is much to be taken to heart. The goal of compliance audits should be to
get the factory to understand and embrace a few key and simple cost-effective
common-sense principles in each area- so they understand how it benefits them
and make it part of their daily practice. Today’s reality is far from that
goal.
Another main problem with compliance is the arrogance with
which it is approached. Those who create and approve the audit criteria insist
that every factory should be able to meet these standards every day-that
without consideration of the realities of your average low-cost third world factory
today. Those of us who have lived with these factories for years can clearly
see the futility of many of these standards and the overall process. I strongly
suspect that those writing and approving the standards don’t know or don’t
care.
And, when the factory makes the news, such as the shoe factory
in Dongguan who made the news recently due to suspected labour abuse and the
arrests of some activists who tried to surreptiously document these abuses—made
more juicy and newsworthy because it is Ivanka Trump’s shoe factory (no it
isn’t- her shoe line is licensed and she not only never heard of the factory
but surely has no role in which factories are chosen by the licensee) it
becomes “China” not “this factory in China.” So the whole country is implicitly
accused of labour abuses and uninformed readers will believe that is the case.
With all due respect, when the US largest employer (Walmart) is also accused of
labour abuses, should the Chinese people carry this as the impression of
American management and not shop in Walmart China, or should the supplier
refuse to sell to them?
In all of this, one key point is lost. The average worker,
whether they are in China or another country, the same ones who the compliance
regimen is supposedly geared at protecting, those who need to make money every
day to feed their families, are the ones to suffer when compliance standards
cannot be met and their factory cannot get orders. They also suffer because the
good lessons of social compliance are lost in the overcomplicated mess of the
practice today.
What should be done?
1.
As I said before, simplify. Reduce the audit criteria to the few basic, common-sense
principles that will ensure safety and fairness to workers, and which factories
can learn and practice.
2.
As a customer, don’t choose factories whose
situation and management attitude guarantees they never will be a safe and
happy place to work-even if their price is seductively low. You know who they
are.
3.
This is far fetched and may never happen, but I
think that countries themselves should set basic audit principles and provide
approval grades and ratings (like the health department) which can be viewed
publicly, so that potential customers can see them before they consider placing
orders. Most important, if the nation is taking responsibility for social
compliance (and not letting it fall prey to corruption-that is the tough part),
the retailer or manufacturer’s ass is covered.
The best part of the above scheme is that the millions of
factories making goods for domestic consumption should also be subject to these
rules. That, dear readers, will be a victory for social compliance that we will
never see under the current regimen.
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